While having a strong Cuban coffee I tried to read a little in the famous Cuban paper "Granma" - named after the Yacht that brought Fidel Castro and 81 Rebels to the shores of Cuba in 1956 to launch the Cuban revolution. I didn't understand a whole lot but it appeared to be quite patriotic and propagandaristic - a cool souvenir so.
The plan for today - my last full day in Cuba was to treat myself a little and tick a box that can't be unchecked when leaving Cuba - Take a tour in an 50s American convertible.
I thought I start looking for it at the large Cohiba Melia Hotel at at the end of the road where I was staying but I couldn't find a suitable ride there.
So I took a Maquina into town where I knew I would find a good selection at the Parque Central and after searching and comparing the different cars on offer I decided to choose a blue 1954 Chevy BelAir Convertible in a beautiful condition.
The driver and this jewel were going to take me around Havana for an hour for 30 CUC.
For the first couple of minutes I enjoyed the view from the wide leathery back seat. We took a very similar tour as the tourist bus I took at the beginning of the trip but we didn't really talk about the sights really, more about this and that and Cuban and European Life - it was more like meeting someone on a pub and having a good chat, rather than a sight seeing tour. - He even gave me a Cohiba Cigarillo. It certainly does add to feeling, driving around Havana in an open Chevy from the 50s smoking a tiny cigar.
Of course we also talked about the car - he told me, as opposed to many other vintage cars this one was original and still had it's original straight six engine and power steering from the factory. Lot's of other tourist cars had to replace their original engines (mostly V8s at the time) with smaller, more efficient four cylinder engines. He was lucky his car originally came with "only a Straight 6" so he could just about afforded the fuel for it.
It really was great time and I am very glad I did spend the money - which I was initially debating if I should (partly because I heard that lots of tourists get charged around 60 CUC, which put me off a bit).
This man really enjoyed what he was doing and who could blame him. He made my day and gave me a great memory which will always stay with me even if in some years the streets of Havana will be full of Tatas and BYDs. For showing me his city and treating me like a friend, rather than a tourist to be ripped off, I was happy to give him another couple of CUC tip, which hopefully he can use to keep his car as beautiful as it is.
Back at the Capitolio, I started my last waok through Habana Vieja to soak up a little more of this great atmosphere before I have to leave this lovely Island tomorrow.
I stopped by a famous Coffee roasting place called O'Reillys Coffee house - apparently Ireland and Cuba share some history, both being two islands who have seen and lived through hard times.
While I was sitting there drinking a marginally better coffee, that was about 30 times the price than in a local place around the corner, I notice that I was being drawn by a guy sitting at another table. I tried to signal him I didn't want to be drawn but he continued. Before I left he came over and showed the picture to me - I tried to tell him I didn't want it (in a friendly way), as I already had one, but he insisted and gave it to me as a present. Now, writing this part I regret I didn't at least give him 2 CUC for his efforts - I still have his picture.
Next item on the list was to get some (late) lunch and I found a nice (touristy/posh) place where I got some nice Sphaghetti Carbonara and I was able to watch a band playing saxophone and other instruments. After the show the came around and got a couple of CUP from everyone, but sitting in the cobble stone streets of Old Havana, under a sun umbrella, eating Pasta and watching and listening to these guys really added the atmosphere and was well worth a little tip.
Then the guys went into the restaurant for a drink and when I went in to pay I got to have a quick chat with them to tell them I really enjoyed it. I this made them a little happy.
Now it was time to get back home again, but there was no rush and I really wanted to take a little more memories home from Cuba, so I walked the 7 km back home along the seafront road - The Malecon - and stopped for a quick Mojito refreshment at the famous Hotel Nacional. This is the place where in December 1946 the US underworld bosses held a conference to discuss important mob rules and business interests while being entertained by Frank Sinatra.
The Mojito was average but hanging out and snooping around this historic place was quite fun. I had to stay a little longer than planned as it started pouring down now. Luckily the hotel has a little museum area where I could see all the famous people who had visited this place through the last 8 decades.
When the rain stopped I continued my walk back home along the coast.
After being just really hot for most of the day it now was really hot and really humid.
A quick shower refreshed me enough and I had a bit of a chat with an Italian couple that also stayed at the Casa.
After a little blogging and a quick rest I then needed more food and decided to visit my old favourite "The Cathedral" again.
First I had to pick up some more money from the ATM to pay for the food and still have enough left for the taxi to the airport tomorrow.
At the Cathedral I treated myself to a Fillet Mignon in a sizzling pan - it was not quite up to spec for my spoiled steak taste buds but considering the price it was still good value. To finish off this evening, and somehow also this visit to Cuba I had the luxury of a nice 7 yo Havana Club - for a Euro or so.
By now I was somewhat sad to have to leave Cuba. Over the last couple of days I was looking forward to go home and see Yuni again but now I really started to like Cuba. I was still looking forward to get home but I did also see why Cuba is a place that most people who visit have only good stories about.
I think the major problem for me was that I visited this Island on my own. There are no youth hostels, no single travellers, you could hang out with and everywhere you go you see couples or families. The Casa Particulars were good value (at 25 - 30 USD for a double room per night), if you travel with a partner - on your own you would be better off in a share a dorm with other like minded people (for 5 USD).
Diving into the real local scene is harder than in other countries. It is more separated: the restaurants, the buses, the sights, the shops... you never really meet local, aside from the Casa Particulars. All of this I didn't really like very much, but I am sure you can do more to dive into this local world, but you need to have a bit more enthusiasm, and I was a little drained of that towards the end of this trip.
On the other hand, Cuba is (and hopefully will continue to be) a very very different place from anywhere else I went. It certainly has its charm and a lot of people are very friendly. There are beautiful places to visit, some interesting history and a lot of cool propaganda murals and statues.
Cuba is a very interesting country and I am glad I visited here although I didn't enjoy it as much as I thought I would (because of the above reasons), but I think I would like to come back some day to see how it changed - this time together with Yuni.
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