Although it was raining we didn't want to miss out on this. Especially because it was quite unlikely to find Milford without rain (more than 200 rain days).
Just to give you a comparison - the average rainfall over the year in Milford sound is 6500mm - Dublin is 870mm.
Very soon we should learn that this was the right decision.
Milford is about 120 km north of Te Anau at the end of pretty much the only road in the all of the Fjordland National park that covers the entire south west of the southern island of New Zealand.
Our plan was to stop off in one of the little towns that were marked on the map for breakfast, but it turned out that the towns were only campgrounds and there as no coffee shop, restaurant or petrol station along this 120 km road.
Instead of cafe's however we were spoilt by unbelievably beautiful, remote and isolated landscapes that became increasingly scarred and barren. It was still raining and suddenly we found ourselves in a valley surrounded not just only by massive rock walls rising to both sides but also by uncountable waterfalls that drained down these vertical cliffs into the valley.
When I am saying uncountable I really do mean uncountable, the water split up, merged again and crossed and sprayed on all sides and it was really impossible to even guess the numbers.
And it should become even more impressive. After a few kilometers of waterfalls to either side we ended up at a massive rock wall right in front of us with a tunnel entrance at it's bottom.
Again, waterfalls everywhere we looked.
The tunnel was a one way tunnel (directed by traffic lights) only and we had to wait until it was our directions turn to go through, so we could enjoy the scenery a little longer.
Just at this spot there must have been 30 to 40 waterfalls of up to 150 meters surrounding us.
Exiting the tunnel on the other side of the mountain it was the same thing over again. All the water rushing down the sides and collecting in the valley from where it flows further down to Milford and then into the sea.
It was incredibly beautiful but at the same time the solid black rock, low hanging clouds and the massive amounts of raging water around us was threatening and it really made an impression on me which called out "Don't mess with nature - it's always going to be more powerful than man".
Sounds a bit poetic maybe but this is really what goes through your mind if you are in the middle of something like this.
At this point I was thinking if rain may possibly be the better weather to go and see Milford as if it was not raining none of the waterfalls (or at least the vast majority) would not be there.
After the tunnel it was not much further and we got to Milford sound, where nature added another one on top of what we have seen before.
The Bowen fall is more like a gigantic water canon than a mere waterfall. The rock formation of the channel where the water runs in forms sort of a ramp for and gives the water a trajectory so that it shoots out of the rock, rather than just drops down the cliff.
To give a contrast fo man made engineering the Serene (on of the 10th biggest private yachts in the world) had anchored right in middle of the bay.
A lot of activity was surrounding this majestic, but in this place tiny looking giant.
Little boats were docking at it's sides and people were doing their work on deck of this 134m long oasis of luxury in the midst this so unreal environment.
After filling up with all these impressions in just 20 minutes we needed a break. Best place to do so was the Blue Duck Cafe, where funnily enough the Superbowl was on live just at this time.
I was more interested in the two pieces of orange cake and a cup of coffee, though.
Now there was a decission to make, whether we take one of the pricey boats out into Milford sound or if we just drive back to Te Anau.
We were not sure (and couldn't really believe) there was much more to be seen with the thick clouds and rain but nonetheless still decided to do the tour.
I did a quick run back to the car where we thought we may have some vouchers and indeed, this run saved us 32$ (15% of 210$).
To be honest, there is no point in trying to describe the boat trip, you will just have to go and see for yourself some day. Or at least check out the photos below.
It was crazy... even more waterfalls and solid rock walls, some of them over 1600 m from the surface of the wall. The could were mostly hiding 2/3 of the mountain where you could just barely make out the shape of the edge of the cliff some kilometre and a bit above you. It was nearly as if nature tried to hide most of it's beauty behind the misty clouds but was not quite successful.
We went all the way out into The Tasman sea and returned to see the spectacle on the other side of the narrow fjord. Towards the end our skipper brought the boat through one of the waterfalls that was more of a random spray when it arrived at the bottom and engulfed the entire boat into the waterfall. It was as if you drive a trabant convertible through a carwash during a rainstorm. - In short we didn't regret the decision of going on the boat.
Very soaked, impressed and happy to have had such an exciting day we sat back in the car and rode down the same road back to Te Anau. Now the clouds were even thicker and it was harded to actually see the waterfalls.
Two hours later we were back at the Alpine View Motel and to justify the money spent on the cruise (as if justification for what we saw was necessary) we went to the shop and bought some more ingredients for pasta.
It rained harded and we couldnt see the other side of the lake any more when we drove home. We were all happy to be sitting in the dry now with some pasta and tomato sauce on the stove and a glass of red wine on the table.
Wow... what a day!
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